Fodor's Review: Dating back to 1792, this fabled café has wined and dined everyone: Cézanne, Zola, Churchill, Picasso, Sartre, Mistinguett, Piaf, Belmondo, and Truffaut are just a few of the Livre d'Or names. Too bad the food is rather ordinary -- stick to the copious hot salads -- but eating isn't what you come here for. It's the linen-decked sidewalk tables looking out to the Cours Mirabeau, the fresh flowers, the white-swathed waiters snaking between chairs, and the little gilt-edged, espresso-filled cup at the end of the meal. Dining inside may be less festive, but if you're into period decor you won't be able to resist the sumptuous epoque consulaire (early 19th-century) decor, all mirrors, gold-ivory boiseries, neoclassical reliefs, and elegantly painted ceilings. At night, the upstairs turns into a cozy, dimly lit piano bar buzzing with an interesting mix of local jazz lovers and students. Call it 2G (pronounced zhay) and everyone will think you're a regular, too.

Fodor's Review: Dating back to 1792, this fabled café has wined and dined everyone: Cézanne, Zola, Churchill, Picasso, Sartre, Mistinguett, Piaf, Belmondo, and Truffaut are just a few of the Livre d'Or names. Too bad the food is rather ordinary -- stick to the copious hot salads -- but eating isn't what you come here for. It's the linen-decked sidewalk tables looking out to the Cours Mirabeau, the fresh flowers, the white-swathed waiters snaking between chairs, and the little gilt-edged, espresso-filled cup at the end of the meal. Dining inside may be less festive, but if you're into period decor you won't be able to resist the sumptuous epoque consulaire (early 19th-century) decor, all mirrors, gold-ivory boiseries, neoclassical reliefs, and elegantly painted ceilings. At night, the upstairs turns into a cozy, dimly lit piano bar buzzing with an interesting mix of local jazz lovers and students. Call it 2G (pronounced zhay) and everyone will think you're a regular, too.